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Zardozi embroidery is beautiful metal embroidery, which once used to
embellish the attire of the Kings and the royals in India. It was also used to
adorn walls of the royal tents, scabbards, wall hangings and the paraphernalia
of regal elephants and horses. Zardozi embroidery work involves making elaborate
designs, using gold and silver threads. Further adding to the magnificence of
the work are the studded pearls and precious stones.
Zardosi embroidery has been in existence in India from the time of the Rig Veda.
There are numerous instances mentioning the use of zari embroidery as
ornamentation on the attire of gods. Initially, the embroidery was done with
pure silver wires and real gold leaves. However, today, craftsmen make use of a
combination of copper wire, with a golden or silver polish, and a silk thread.
This is because there is hardly any availability of gold/silver on such a large
scale as before.
Main Center of Zardozi Embroidery in India
Zardosi embroidery work is mainly a specialty of Lucknow, Bhopal, Hyderabad,
Delhi, Agra, Kashmir, Mumbai, Ajmer and Chennai.
History of Zardozi Embroidery in India
The word 'Zardozi' is made up of two Persian terms, Zar meaning gold and Dozi
meaning embroidery. A Persian embroidery form, Zardosi attained its summit in
the 17th century, under the patronage of Mughal Emperor Akbar. Under the rule of
Aurangzeb, the royal patronage stopped and this led to the decline of the craft.
Since the cost was high and raw materials quite rare, craftsmen could not carry
on with the embroidery on their own.
Many craftsmen left Delhi and went to the courts of Rajasthan and Punjab in
search of work. With the 18th and 19th century bringing industrialization, the
craft suffered another setback. It was only after receiving independence in the
year 1947 that the Indian government undertook steps to promote Zari embroidery.
Method of Zardozi Embroidery
The process of doing Zardozi embroidery starts with the craftsmen sitting
cross-legged around the Addaa, the wooden framework, with their tools. The tools
include curved hooks, needles, salmaa pieces (gold wires), sitaaras (metal
stars), round-sequins, glass & plastic beads, dabkaa (thread) and kasab
(thread). The second step in the process is to trace out the design on the
cloth, if possible fabrics like silk, satin, velvet, etc. The fabric is then
stretched over the wooden frame and the embroidery work begins. Needle is used
to pull out each zardozi element and then, it is integrated into the basic
design by pushing the needle into the fabric.
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